The initial combustion of acetylene heats the steel to a molten state. By adding pressurized oxygen, the cutter ignites the steel to burn through the kerf of the cut. Steel and carbon steel are the only materials are used to cut but Aluminum, stainless steel, and other metals and alloys cannot be cut with a cutting torch.
Harris cutting torch espesialy designed for any heavy duty, medium duty and also typical works and it succeeded to pass all standards of safety with high quality of materials. Harris cutting torch is available in a high level of verity in the range of cutting thikness and cutting tips which we mention some of them at the buttem.
American harris company pioneer in manufacturing welding and cutting equipments, could invent oxy-acetilen welding method in 1899 and keeping on its sucsesful activities till now with some other equipments like industrial regulators, cutting torch, welding torch, cutting machine, welding kits and lots of other welding and cutting equipments.
142 Series, ideal for industrial uses
Cutting capacity: 5 to 200 mm depending on the nozzle
Harris cutting torch‘s feul gas: LPG, propane, acetylene
Material of flashguard: brass
Max pressure of mixing gas: 1,5 kpa
Harris cutting torch usages: industrial, constructur and any cutting or brazing work
Weight: 1,9 kg
Angel of head: 90 degree
Harris cutting torch contain’s this models: Z142038, Z142037, 142033
625 Series ideal for industrial uses
Cutting capacity: 5 to 300 mm
Harris torch compatible with: LPG, propane, acetylene gas
Material of flash guard: brass
Mix gas presur: 1.5 kpa
Weight: 1.5 & 1.9 kg
Head angel: 90 & 180 degree
Length of torch: 1.25m, 1.5m & 2m
Harris cutting torch 625 series contains: 066, 019, 084, 088 models
How to use a Cutting Torch
1-To light the torch.
With opening the acetylene valve allow the oxygen remaining in the mixing chamber to purge for a few seconds. Then shut the valve until you can barely hear gas escaping. Holding the striker in front of the torch tip. With the tip facing inside the striker, squeeze the handle. A small yellow flame appears at the tip when the sparks from the striker ignite the acetylene.
2-To adjust the acetylene valve until having a yellow flame of about 10 inches or 25.4 cm long.
Make sure the flame begins at the torch tip; if too much acetylene is supplied the flame will jump, or be blown away from the tip.
3-To turn the forward oxygen valve on slowly.
The flame color turns from yellow to light blue as sufficient oxygen is supplied to completely combust the acetylene. Increase the oxygen until the inner blue flame begins to shrink back toward the tip.
4-To open the oxygen valve more to increase the flame size until the length of the inner flame is just over the thickness of the steel you are intending to cut.
For 3/8 inch cold-rolled plate or mild steel, a 1/2-inch inner flame is about right
5-To bring the tip of the inner flame to the surface of the steel you are going to cut.
You need to heat the steel with this flame until a molten pool of metal forms and luminesces at this location.
For 1/4-inch plate steel at room temperature, this takes about 45 seconds; however, it takes longer for heavier material or material at low temperatures. Keep the tip of the flame steady and about 3/8 of an inch from the metal’s surface to concentrate the heat in one location.
6-To push the cutting valve handle down slowly to release the oxygen jet, this ignites the molten steel.
If a violent reaction instantly starts, the steel has ignited, and you can gradually increase pressure until the jet is cutting completely through the metal. If no reaction occurs, the metal is not hot enough to ignite, so you can let the oxygen handle release and continue to allow the flame to heat the metal more.
7-To begin moving the torch tip slowly along the line of your cut when the jet is cutting through the steel.
You observe that almost all of the sparks and molten slag are being blown out the back or bottom of your cut. If this flow of superheated material slows or backs up, slow your forward speed or stop and let the metal heat more. It is better to cut too slowly than to try to cut too quickly.
8-To continue cutting until you have parted the metal or finished the cut.
Make sure the slag and any droplets of heated metal do not get underfoot; even sturdy boot soles will burn through if you find yourself standing on a large piece.
9-To cool the work piece with plenty of water.
Or, allow it to cool naturally if you are in no hurry. Be aware that dipping a superheated piece of steel into a bucket or stream of cold water will create an instantaneous cloud of very hot steam.
10-To chip the slag from the cut.
You can also grind the cut smooth if a more precise fit is desired.